Weinkeller – A Fresh Face in Niagara Falls

There's a new restaurant, open for barely a week, that really seems to be off on the right foot. Weinkeller, situated smack-dab in the bustling tourist area of Niagara Falls, is not your ordinary, tourist town ripoff.

Weinkeller occupies the former Wild Mushroom restaurant space on Victoria Avenue. Current owner, Chris Dobson, has kept many of the unique interior design elements intact. Heavy, carved wooden beams, reclaimed brick walls and fireplace and whitewashed ceiling lend substance to the restaurant's old-world inspired name.

Weinkeller is also unique because it is a winery and restaurant. Think of the more recognizable term – brew pub. Weinkeller is, well,  the wine-lover's equivalent. They make their own wines on the premises for sale and consumption with the fresh, fixed price, yet flexible menu. The house-made wines, which are “on tap,” are not only likeable quaffers, they're reasonably priced at a dollar an ounce with six or nine ounce pours available. The first wines were made from locally sourced juice and current varietals include Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

For $35 you get three courses but you can select the “mix” of the three you like from the five categories – soup, salad, appetizer, entree and dessert. For another ten bucks, and you can pick one from them all.

Heirloom tomato, fennel and arugula with fresh mozzarella

You can order à la carte if you like, but if you add up three courses based on the individual prices, most diners will lean toward the fixed-price option.

Fried goat cheese (photo above) with roasted garlic, truffle honey and rosemary. A nice match with the Pinot Grigio.

Dishes are prepared from fresh ingredients, presentations are focused and uncluttered and, for the most part, flavours, seasoning and textural contrast are well-executed. We sampled seven courses in all and had only one minor criticism– a rather dry version of panzanella salad (served with beef carpaccio). Service staff are well-trained, enthusiastic and attentive.

Cedar-planked salmon, wild rice and beets

My New York strip steak, cooked exactly as ordered, was tender with good flavour and moist, pink interior. I particularly enjoyed the Weinkeller sauce, a savoury-sweet sauce with just a bit of tartness from the addition of tamarind. Another plus was the dusting of truffle salt on the house-made frites.

Our desserts did not disappoint either. The light, creaminess of cheesecake topped with a fresh plum coulis was a study in contrasting colours, texture and balanced flavours.

We visited Weinkeller on their first Friday night since opening and you would have thought the place had been open much longer. By 6pm the restaurant was more than half full. Weinkeller has a lot going for it – great food, friendly service, reasonable prices and warm atmosphere.  There is metered parking next door ($5 flat rate) but Dobson is working to arrange validated parking for customers. Wheelchair access is a bit of a challenge due to the few steps down from street level. Rating: 2 Stars (Out of 3) Weinkeller 5633 Victoria Ave. Niagara Falls, ON 289-296-8000